Navigating the M/V Tustumena In Deplorable Weather
M/V Tustumena Navigates Through High Seas and Gale Force Winds on a Return from Dutch Harbor
"We are proud of our good ship Tustumena"
Captain Bill Hopkins, AMHS retired
Westward, one sees a land largely untouched by people, a wild landscape devoid of timber presenting itself in sharp relief to the exploring eye. There are dramatic sedimentary promontories like Castle Cape, and other equally rugged capes with impressive Native and Russian names such as: Igvak, Unalishavak, Kekurnoi, Ilktugitak, Atushagvik, Kuliuk, Kuyuyukak, Nukshak, Kiukpalilik, Ikolik, and Karluk.



This was jaw-dropping fear as a monstrous rogue wave struck on the port bow with unexpected suddenness.
We struck a dock fender with a solid, glancing blow on the bow—our ship bounced away and I missed the landing. Four transverse frames in the bow tripped, that is, laying down flat against the inside of the ship’s hull plating. There were no holes. Following a damage assessment of the dock allision, I made the decision of not going back to the Cold Bay dock for a third try at docking. We sailed on regardless of several loud radio messages from Cold Bay on our VHF radio expressing their immense disappointment and imploring the Tustumena to return for another attempt at docking in their wind-swept harbor. We were able to make it into and out of the next port of King Cove in high wind from ahead, rather than on the side. Powerfully, the low-pressure weather system deepened more, and the northwest wind continued strengthening without pause, racing through mountain gaps and bays along the Alaska Peninsula and spilling out on the open sea with tremendous force. At Sand Point, the wind blew fifty-five to sixty knots straight on the dock. Rather than try docking, we jogged in Popof Strait in the shelter of the Shumagin Islands, thinking that in time the wind would diminish or change direction. Seven hours later, there was no change. We bypassed Sand Point, departing from the safety of the Shumagin Islands at the Andronica Island Light, continuing on our voyage to our next port of call at Chignik. Offshore of magnificent Castle Cape, a blast of wind over ninety knots hit the port side of the Tustumena so forcefully she heeled over to starboard. We rounded Castle Cape and struggled into Chignik at the head of Anchorage Bay. Successfully docking between strong blasts of wind that picked up water and twirled it around like desert dust devils, we paused, and kept a close watch on our mooring lines. The entire town came down to the Aleutian Dragon cannery dock to watch our arrival and greet the ship with an air of community festivity. Clusters of people gathered excitedly on the dock where one explained, “We are quite isolated out here, you know. Like a fine weave the Tustumena knits our communities together,” weather permitting.





If you enjoyed this, check out "Precipice of the Deep - Part 1."
17 comments
Yes, I remember those voyages to Anchorage and the smooth run down the Cook Inlet, and then we encountered the area of the Barren Islands. It’s some of the roughest water around. ?
Indeed, Marianne, being on board the Tustumena for any length of time is an adventure. I call it the Legendary Tustumena. Best wishes with your writing. ?
Have been on the Tustemena many times. Part of the inspiration for my mystery adventure novels featuring the Alaska Marine Highway (www.marianneschlegelmilch.com). Interesting and captivating story! Thank you for writing it and sharing this uniquely Alaskan experience.
Have been on the trusty tusty a few times, the first was way back when she came into Anchorage and sailed to Kodiak
Out of Anchorage was clear and smooth, the next day we ran into a storm, my dad (being retired Navy)was sitting in the dining room pretty much by himself as the we’re paging first, second, third and final call, where the normally called first and last.
Ran into storms almost every time, but l love her and will hate to see her leave.
Thank you, Pam, it’s great knowing you enjoyed the article. When I first sailed the Tustumena as a steward in 1973 your husband, Don, was the captain. There is a lot of history and memories with the Tustumena. Our hugs and love to you too. Captain Bill Hopkins
Great read. Brings back many memories, Bill, thank you. I am sorry that Don is not here
to enjoy it, he would have loved it. Hugs and Love Pam Oldow
You’re very welcome! Thank you.
a great read and a fine memory shared,thank you
Yes, when we know a bad storm is about to hit, we recommend passengers come inside. When things are really tough, it doesn’t take any convincing to come inside.
Good sailing to you, Tiny! Thank you.
The Tustumena is a legendary ship; we miss going to Seward too. At the time, we went to Seward on the Kennicott and we were squeezed out for dock space by cruise ships in the summer.
The wind was blowing into the Solarium most of the night. Most folks moved inside. After the wave, we took a roll call to be sure everyone was on board. It was a tremendous wave and thankfully I never experienced another one like it. I have learned since that the counter-clockwise Gulf of Alaska current called the Alaska Stream narrows and speeds up off the east side of Kodiak Island. When that goes against an opposing wind larger than normal seas may result, especially offshore of Cape Sitkinak.
Capt Hopkins is one of the finest masters I have had the privilege to sail with. I would follow Capt Hopkins orders without question any where anytime!
Very well written, and can just picture the story being told. My ride to Kodiak and back was in 1965. My mom and I took a trip just for the ride. Before she had stablizers added. We got into a rip tide and rough seas. We still enjoyed it in spite of most were seasick’ till we stopped in Kodiak. Cane back home to Seward, with happy thoughts of the Trusty Tusty. I later in the late 70s took two trips to Valdez. Just for the ride and see Cordova and Valdez. Was heartbroken when Seward lost the homeport . The Tustumena holds a special place in my memories. Thanks for the story.
I’m curious to know what happened to the folks in the solarium when you took the big wave? Do you have them move indoors prior to big weather events?
Thank you, Richard. Good sailing to you!
Awesome pictures of AK, Captain Bill. Great sea story to tell your grandchildren. I have a few to tell mine.
All my best,
Rich